The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, particularly those with the iconic "orange hand," holds a mythical status among watch collectors. Its rugged construction, purposeful design, and association with the legendary Steve McQueen have cemented its place as one of the most desirable vintage Rolex models. This article delves deep into the world of the Rolex Explorer II 1655, focusing on the highly sought-after orange-hand variant, its history, variations, pricing, and the enduring allure that makes it a grail watch for many. We will also examine a specific example currently listed for $36,350, providing context within the broader market for this coveted timepiece.
A Legend in the Making: The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655
Introduced in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 was designed as a tool watch for explorers and adventurers. Unlike its predecessor, the Explorer I, the 1655 featured a crucial addition: a 24-hour hand, allowing wearers to easily distinguish between day and night, particularly crucial in challenging environments with limited or no sunlight. This feature, combined with its robust Oyster case and reliable automatic movement, solidified its reputation as a dependable and versatile timepiece for extreme conditions.
The 1655's distinctive design elements include its large, easily legible numerals and markers, a fixed bezel with 24-hour markings, and its signature crown guards, protecting the winding crown from accidental impacts. These features, coupled with its impressive water resistance, made it a practical and reliable choice for professionals operating in demanding environments.
The Allure of the Orange Hand: Rolex 1655 Dial Variations
One of the most significant variations within the 1655 family lies in the color of the 24-hour hand. While many examples feature a black hand, the orange hand variant is far more collectible and commands significantly higher prices. This orange hand, often described as a "tropical" orange due to its slight variations in hue depending on age and exposure to sunlight, is believed to have been a factory-applied feature and not a result of fading. The exact reasons behind the variation in hand colors remain a subject of debate among collectors, adding to the mystique surrounding these watches.
The dials themselves also offer variations, contributing to the complexity and fascination of collecting the 1655. These variations include differences in the lume plots, the font used for the numerals, and the overall patina developed over time. Some dials exhibit a creamy or aged look, further enhancing their vintage appeal. Understanding these dial variations is crucial for discerning collectors who aim to identify genuine examples and appreciate the subtle nuances that distinguish one 1655 from another.
The Steve McQueen Connection: Rolex Steve McQueen Explorer II
The legend of Steve McQueen's connection to the Rolex Explorer II 1655 is a significant factor in its desirability. While definitive proof of McQueen owning a specific 1655 with an orange hand is lacking, numerous photographs depict him wearing a similar watch, fueling the speculation and significantly boosting the model's desirability. This association with a Hollywood icon, known for his adventurous spirit and rugged style, has transformed the 1655 into a coveted piece for collectors seeking a connection to cinematic history and a symbol of classic masculinity. The term "Steve McQueen Explorer II" has become synonymous with the orange-hand variant, further cementing its status as a grail watch.
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